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Archive for April, 2012

Rose gardening is all about the flowers.

You plant carefully, in the right conditions, and nurture your plants along with fertilizer, pruning and care, and finally – blooms!

The last thing you want to see is a problem developing- a bug, yellowing leaves, or a hole chewed in your prized flower petals.

At the first sign of a problem, you want to act fast, and you want to solve the problem.

Bayer Advanced has developed a line of rose care products that have got you covered. They’re making it really easy to tackle rose problems and knock them out fast, whether it’s insects or disease.

Here’s the lineup:Yellow Rose

For Disease:

For Insects:

For All-in-One Protection AND Fertilizer:

Total Rose care in easy granular or liquid drench. Disease protection, Insect protection and bloom-boosting fertilizer in one easy application.

 

These are all systemic products, so not only do they control the problem already present, they also continue to protect against future outbreaks.They are specifically formulated for roses and other ornamentals, and they are proven-problem solvers.

So don’t waste time guessing. Save this information somewhere handy, and when a problem breaks out this season, head to Bayer Advanced.

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Dandelion

I’m going to war.

That’s right, it’s me against the dandelions. Because somehow, overnight, all of those sweet, cheerful yellow blooms scattered across my lawn turned into tall, scraggly, ugly puffballs. And now they have to go.

The problem is my neighbors. Lawn A is a beautiful, flawless, weed-free swath of green. Lawn B on the other side is the most abundant, expansive display of dandelion puffballs I have ever seen.

And I am the only buffer between them.

Naturally, I feel responsible.

I’ve got to keep the dandelions from invading Lawn A. They are creeping their way through my front yard, and if they make it across it will be MY FAULT!

So I’m taking action. I just bought a bag of Bonide Weed Beater Complete. It kills AND prevents about 50 grassy and broadleaf weeds, including dandelions. Prevention is important, because, even if I kill what’s there now, I need to keep the seeds from Lawn B from sprouting as they waft their way into my lawn on every breeze.

It’s so easy even I can do it. The 10Lb bag covers 5,200 Sq Ft. I’ll just follow the spreader settings on the back of the bag, and in a few minutes I’ll have a Dandelion proof barrier that will keep the puffballs where they belong. – In Lawn B!

Bonide Weed Beater Complete will kill most common lawn weeds, and prevent new ones for sprouting for the next 60-90 days.

Weeds Controlled: Chickweed, Clover, Crabgrass, Dandelion, Foxtail, Goosegrass, Ground Ivy, Henbit, Nutsedge, Plantain, Poa, Spotted Spurge, Purslane, Wild violet, and more.

Got Weeds? Give Bonide Weed Beater a try:

Bonide Weed Beater Complete

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Purple CrocusSpring!

It sure sprung early this year. Many parts of the country are 2-3 weeks or more ahead of schedule. The riot of spring color came on fast and furious, and it has been gorgeous.

The problem is, there is still plenty of time for frost, and night time temperatures below freezing. Plants have put out tender leaves and flowers too early growth that can’t withstand freezing temperatures.

That’s where FreezePruf comes in. FreezePruf is a foliar spray that increases a plants ability to withstand cold damage. It improves cold tolerance from 2 to 9 degrees, depending on the type of plant, and the severity of the weather.

FreezePruf will last up to 4 weeks, even with moderate rain, so you can go ahead and spray it on any tender plants you have outside. That way, if there is a sudden frost or freeze, you won’t be caught un-prepared, or have to do a rush job.

All you have to do is spray your plant thoroughly. Cover all surfaces of leaves and stems. FreezePruf protects both superficially with a layer of protection against ice, and systemically by lowering the freezing point of water inside the plant. It is biodegradable, and non-toxic, so you can use it without worry. It will not harm people, pets, or your plants.

So if you have had some early growth in your garden that worries you, go ahead and apply FreezePruf now. You’ll be protected if temperatures dip, and not risk damage to new growth and flowers. You can also use it on vegetable plants, as well as fruiting trees to protect the blossoms and your future harvest!

 

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Tree - leaf canopy

Need a crash course on proper tree watering?

There are 3 key tree watering facts that you should know.

FACT #1. Deep Water Saturation is Essential

Why is deep watering my new tree so important?

Newly planted / transplanted trees, with their greatly reduced root systems and the shock from being removed, are in great need of frequently applied deep irrigation. Deep watering keeps moisture concentrations far below the surface, reducing transplant shock, and attracting roots downward deep into the soil.

How deep is deep enough?

Deep watering to a depth of at least 12 inches or more is recommended. Most of the root system of a tree is located within the top 2 to 4 feet of soil. With new trees, it is also recommended that water be applied directly over the root ball / root mass.

How can I efficiently achieve deep water saturation?

Experts suggest that the best way to efficiently ensure deep water penetration is to slowly and evenly apply a high volume of water in a single application. This means that light watering applications (i.e. via sprinklers. hose, etc.) will not provide adequate water saturation.

FACT #2. Trees Need High Volumes of Water

How much water does a new tree typically require?…

While there is no standard watering amount that is suitable for all new trees, there are general watering guidelines that can be followed. One commonly used formula suggests 10 gallons of water per week for every 1 inch of tree caliper; For example: A single 2 inch caliper (trunk diameter) tree would require approx. 20 gallons of water per week.

Can’t I just apply water frequently with a sprinkler or hose?

Watering a tree lightly, even on a regular basis, is insufficient. Most of the water applied will be lost due to run-off and/or evaporation. And most importantly, light applications of water will force roots to the surface, leading to shallow rooting and poor root anchorage.

Why do newly planted trees need so much water?

Newly planted trees lose much of their root system during digging. Because of this, they are much less effective at taking up water, and thus require much more water than established trees.

FACT #3. Establishment Can Take Several Years

How long can it take for a new tree to get established?

It can take several years for a transplanted tree to re-establish its root system. On average, a tree is said to require 1 year for every 1 inch of trunk caliper (diameter). This means that a 3 inch caliper tree can take up to 3 years to get established!

Why does it take so long for a new tree to establish itself?

Transplanted trees lose much of their roots during digging, and thus experience an adjustment period called transplant shock.

What are the signs / symptoms of transplant shock?

Symptoms vary; However, signs include; shortened or poor annual growth, wilted leaves, increased seed production, reduced flowering, early fall color, and early leaf drop.

What can be done to curb the effects of transplant shock?

Proper & regular watering is essential. Supplemental watering (in addition to rainfall) is recommended for at least the first 2 years. Treegator® is the best way to make sure your  trees  receive the deep, high-volume irrigation they need.

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